I’ve identified some gaps in my wardrobe recently, but the biggest of all was the black/ dark coloured clothes, not to mention my every day wear. I went on a fabric frenzy to buy what I needed for a few of my projects.
The first one was a boho style maxi dress, something cool to wear in the humid weather. I have made this Burda style pattern 05/2010 tiered maxi dress #113, in the past and really liked the fit but I don’t have the magazine with me at the moment. I didn’t want to purchase the pattern again, so drafted my own bodice. I believe I had mentioned a few posts back that drafting patterns isn’t my thing but I seem to be doing it a lot lately, probably more out of necessity than anything else. Regardless, once the bodice was fitting okay, the skirt was just some gathered rectangles sewn together.
I made the dress up in premium black faille (100% polyester) and self lined the bodice. I used some trace and toile to draft my pattern, why have I never used this before? I thought all was good until I sewed up my fashion fabric and realised I had to take in another 1/2 inch from either side. My thinking is that fabric had a big part in this as my toile fit perfectly. Anyway, I fit as I sewed to get the look right. The model shot shows the bodice quite loose and I didn’t want that for myself so made it quite fitted.
I added three 12mm hexagonal black buttons to the front bodice for some visual interest. There is a 16″ (40 cm) black invisible zipper on the left side. To insert the zipper, I attached the first tier to the bodice, leaving the left seam open and then serged the seam for neatness. I inserted my invisible zip as I would normally and then stitched the remainder of the left side seam closed. I was able to then attach the middle tier as per normal.
I cut 2 rectangles for each tier using the following dimension. My first tier was 13 inch x 26 inch, the middle tier 15 inch x 34.5 inch and the bottom tier 17 inch x 42.5 inch. I guessed the measurements I required based on the fit I wanted. Not overly loose but roomy, venturing close to the pregnant look from the side (NO I’M NOT!) and it can be worn with a belt if need be.
I sewed the side seams together for each tier to make a closed loop and then gathered them before sewing to the layer above. All seams were serged as was the hem which was then turned up 1/4″ and then 1/4″ again and stitched. I hand stitched the bodice lining to the the seam allowance at the bodice-first tier seam and also to the zipper tape.
I chose to omit a lining in this version as my fabric was dense enough. I may consider making this again in the future but just sewing the top two tiers and having more a midi version.