MRT Faux Wrap Dress by 1 Puddle Lane

I get excited when a tester call goes out for a designer who’s patterns I have purchased in the past and have made a few versions that I wear often. When Ann posted a call for the MRT Faux Wrap Dress test* I was chuffed to be involved. I have the Miss Ruby Tuesday (MRT) and thought the fit of the faux wrap dress may be similar.

The MRT Faux Wrap Dress is a knee-length dress with a crossover front, with or without side tucks.  It is fitted at the bust, waist and high hip and looser over the hip. Although this is a sleeveless pattern there is a “sleeved” and “extended shoulder” template from the original MRT and the add-on pattern. The pattern is offered in sizes 2XS–6XL.

I chose to make my version without the side tucks using some kind of cotton spandex (unknown composition). Sewing the pattern is pretty straightforward with clear instructions and nice finishing techniques using bands for the neckline and armholes. This is a quick sew, especially if you have sewn the MRT previously and don’t have any fit issues.

The fit is exactly as described with a fitted upper bodice and more room around the hips, perfect for my pear shape really. I’m looking forward to making the side tucks version, I think it will be more forgiving after a big meal, or perhaps I need to use a busier fabric.

Don’t miss out on adding this pattern to your library. The MRT Faux Wrap Dress, along with all other patterns are 20% off until Sunday 31st March with a coupon code which you can get by joining the 1PL-Sewing and Pattern Studio Facebook group.

*The pattern was provided to me free of charge for testing but all opinions expressed are my own and I received a copy of the finalised pattern for taking part.

Miss Sophie Top by 1 Puddle Lane

I have been in the throes of testing once again but have been fortunate enough to also be selective in what I apply to test to ensure it’s going to be worn over the season.

The Miss Sophie by 1 Puddle Lane* pretty much hit the mark as the pattern to replicate yet again another inspiration I have gathered in what is the rabbit hole of Pinterest. The pattern comes with all the features that I think are now expected with PDF patterns. The instructions are clear and thorough and there are two sleeve variations a split sleeve, or non split sleeve, both ending in either gathers or a cuff or go without the gathers and cuff altogether. It features a scoop, bound neckline with a front keyhole and the size range is 6-26AU/2-22US. The top is loose and floaty thus looks best with woven fabric with a soft drape.

I chose to test using a draper floral rayon (100% rayon). I made a size 12 with the split sleeve and cuff. I especially love the hem line of the top with a slightly longer back and a small side split. The top is very floaty and comfortable, a great transitioning piece. I have made some small ties to sew at the end of my sleeve split just as a variation but haven’t sewn them on yet.

I don’t believe any changes were made to the final pattern. I have already bought my fabric, washed and dried it for my next version which actually closely resembles my inspiration blouse. Can’t wait to find time to sew it up now that we are heading into school holidays.

1 Puddle Lane is having a 20% off storewide till this Friday, 28th September.  Just use the code:  SOPHIE20 at the checkout. There are a lot of great patterns to chose from.

**The pattern was provided to me free of charge for testing but all opinions expressed are my own and I received a copy of the finalised pattern for taking part.

Blue Scuba Mash Dress of Vogue 8711 and Miss Ruby Tuesday

This is still part of my 2015 sewing, and I have more yet to come before I start on 2016 makes.

I bought this blue digital printed scuba #1  fabric (95% polyester/ 5% spandex) on a whim, not sure what to make with it but decided it would become my birthday dress. Initially I was going to make the Miss Ruby Tuesday dress because it is a quick sew and I have worn this version quite a lot. Not to mention scuba doesn’t require ironing and is easy to launder.

Ruby mash frontRuby mash back                                 Ruby mash side

I decided on a mash up of the Miss Ruby Tuesday bodice because it fits well and for the fact it is quick to sew, but went with a fancy skirt portion, not ideal considering I was making this the night before my birthday dinner. I used Vogue 8711, which has been on my to sew list for ages. The fabric doesn’t really help with the pleating and to overcome the “puffy” factor at these pleats I top stitched them down for about 5cm but I don’t mind the body it gives the skirt since the bodice is simple. It’s a bit hard to see the design lines in this print but in the photo below you can just tell where the pleating ends at the front curved yoke.

Ruby mash side 2

The back of the skirt has curved yoke pieces that would otherwise be sewn to a waistband but because I was attaching them directly to the bodice, I stitched them together first in the middle. This meant the skirt wasn’t completely aligned at the sides but due to the stretch fabric it didn’t concern me. What I really should have done is sewn them to the bodice in the same manner.

line drawing

The bodice was slightly narrower than the skirt in the end but I just shaved off/curved the skirt waistline to match and I probably should have shortened the bodice by an inch as there is some pooling of fabric back there which wasn’t existent with the circle skirt attached.

For the hem I serged and turned up the amount recommended by the pattern, it was quite a deep hem from memory, and then stitched it down. Construction of the dress was done with a normal straight stitch and neatened with the serger.

I’m pleased with the outcome but still plan to sew the skirt separately in a fabric with more drape. I think that the curved back yoke pieces add some bulk to the lower back in this particular fabric because of the many interconnecting seams and if I had thought it through properly I should have made the back yoke one piece.

Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress by 1 Puddle Lane

I had initially seen the Miss Ruby Tuesday dress from 1 Puddle Lane when a tester call went out and knew as soon as the pattern was released I’d purchase it. I bought it, printed, taped and cut the pattern the moment it was released and then sewed it up in under an hour the next night. I think it’s really great value as there are so many options for this dress.

Miss Ruby front 2

                  Miss Ruby front Miss Ruby back

I used some mono printed scuba #1 black heather (95% polyester/ 5% spandex) to make style 3 with the extended cap sleeves, with the scoop front and back neckline and the 1/2 circle skirt. I used a ballpoint needle to sew it up with a narrow zig zag stitch. I neatened all my seams with an overlocker including the inside seam of the neck and armhole bindings. I only had 1.5m of this fabric and was able to cut all the pieces out because it was non-directional although I did run out of a long length to cut the neck binding so just sewed two pieces together. It is such a busy print you can’t even notice. I ended up using white thread to sew this up mainly because the wrong side of the fabric is white but what would you have used? What dictates your thread choice?

Binding close

The fit of this dress was perfect out of the envelope, normally I find I have to shorten the bodice but this seems to hit at the right spot for me. I did lengthen the skirt by 5cm however as I like the additional length on me better. I was a little lazy and just lengthened it at the hem rather than from the provided shorten/lengthen line and it still turned out okay. The hem was left raw as scuba knit does not fray and I wasn’t going to attempt hemming this circle skirt, in a different knit however I would.

Miss Ruby front 3

 It is such a simple pattern with such a nice outcome and really good value for money. I am determined to sew up a wardrobe full of these, well not really, but have a couple of others lined up in the queue because they are so quick. I am pondering a pleather and ponte version as I have both fabrics in my stash and wasn’t sure what to make from them. Stay tuned!