Julie Blouse by DesignerStitch Patterns

I’m all over the place at the moment with my blogging, a bit out of order, actually a lot out of order!!! Much of my pattern testing lately has been for DesignerStitch Patterns. Ann has been pumping them out, ready to be released as somewhat of a collection and all the patterns I have tested to date have been well fitting and really, wardrobe staples.

The Julie Blouse* is a very much on trend blouse, such that one of my friends was wearing an almost identical style of top, barr a few minor differences, to our recent catch up. The style is a blouson, cross-over front with a longer back. Sleeves can be rolled up or left long and the collar is convertible.
Julie Blouse front 1
                                   Julie Blouse side 2 Julie Blouse back

I used some stash multi-coloured geometric poly chiffon (100% polyester), it really requires a fabric with good drape to show off the front cross-over feature, not highly evident with my fabric however. There is a fair amount of ease in this top so I’d probably recommended to go down a size if you want a more fitted style, I went down two from my normal size and it is still roomy. Just make sure to check pattern measurements for yourself, don’t take it from me.

It isn’t a very complicated sew but does require concentration, especially when getting the cross-over part together. The instructions/diagrams have been modified since testing but otherwise the pattern itself is pretty much the same. I usually have a rule of thumb that I don’t write/review a garment until I have made at least a second version from the final pattern but in this case there weren’t any changes to fit/style.

For the interfacing, I used white because that is what I had, even though the top is predominantly black, but in this case it made the colours more vibrant, and really at the end of the day it isn’t that noticeable.

I do want to make a white version for spring though, it’s such a versatile pattern, unlike my tester version which is bright and loud, I just figured I better post about this top now because getting around to actually making version two may be a while away.

*The pattern was provided to me free of charge for testing, all opinions expressed are my own and I received a copy of the finalised pattern for taking part.

Black and White Polka Dot Burda Blouse #105 from 4/2010

This Flounce Detail Blouse #105 from 4/2010, has been a long time coming. I traced and cut my pattern pieces out sometime in 2013. It has been sitting patiently waiting in a bag to be finished. To be perfectly honest, the motivation to sew it to completion was almost non-existent and I wasn’t sure if this style was me anymore, and also owed to the fact I used pretty much the same fabric as the model photo. Mine is a black with polka dot monotone printed chiffon (100% polyester)….. Regardless, I wanted to get a UFO finished and into the wardrobe to focus on more fun stuff. Here is is worn with a belt and tucked in with my New Look 6107 white skirt.

Burda blouse out front

                         Burda blouse out back Burda blouse out back 2

As per normal Burda instructions, they are sparse, and written without diagrams. This pattern is labelled intermediate and I think that it fair as you really need some knowledge about blouse construction. I found the instructions in regards to the flounces, collar and neckline very ordinary and confusing myself at times but soldiered on.

Burda blouse in front

Burda blouse in sideThe neckline is quite low on this blouse which is okay with me in this instance as my fabric is transparent and requires a singlet be worn underneath anyway. It has a left side zip. I ended up making my usual Burda size and actually eliminated the zip because I can pull the blouse on and off with some sort of ease. The bust and back darts give it some nice shaping.

The instructions have you interface the centre front where the “V” is and I chose not too, thinking it may be visible, but in hindsight I should have as it would have strengthened the area and also would not be visible as the flounces cover that area.

The hemming of the ruffles takes some time, I did a machine narrow hem and for the blouse hem I used 12mm single fold black bias tape to preserve length.

I did french seams for the side seams because my fabric frays and the edges are visible through the fabric so I wanted them to look nice. The yoke has all enclosed seams. I ended up using black 12mm single fold bias tape for the armholes. I initially sewed on the facing for the neckline and it just wouldn’t sit flat so off it came and I enclosed the neckline seam with the same 25mm black bias binding and hand stitched it so the stitching wasn’t visible from the outside.

I wish this was a bow blouse instead as I don’t know how much wear the flounces will get, although now that I have said it, my blouse will probably become a work horse. The flounces don’t always sit nice but I guess it’s good to have a not so basic blouse in rotation. And who doesn’t love polka dots!!!!

New Look 6107 White Skirt with Floral Blouse

This post is a two for one today as both items are recent makes, ie within the last week.

First up the skirt, New Look 6107, view D, the longer skirt, made up in white cavalier garbardine (65% polyester/ 35% viscose). This pattern has definitely become my TNT pencil skirt and I have also drafted lining pattern pieces to go with this vented skirt using the tutorial by a Fashionable Stitch. I like that the skirt has a nice size waistband, centre back zip, a walking vent and the front and back darts give the skirt a nice fit.

new look 6107 belted front

                          new look 6107 belted side 2new look 6107 belted back

I used white pongee lining (100% polyester) as it is a more dense fabric as opposed to the acetate lining I had in my stash. White isn’t a great colour to wear, especially on the bottom half because you can look bottom heavy and it gets dirty easy but is an easy colour to match up never the less.

I changed the zipper from a lapped one to a 20cm white invisible zip as that it what I had in my stash but I also like the look of them better.

It’s a nice fit and length skirt and if it ain’t broke don’t fix it although I think I may like to peg the skirt slightly. There will be more of these in my immediate future, two of which have already been cut.

On to the blouse. I have never made any other garments from this same pattern (New Look 6107) and thought to pair view C with this floral cotton poplin (100% cotton) because I wasn’t too sure which pattern to use with this fabric anyway when finalising my SWAP 15 a while back.

I followed the instructions exactly and thought at worst I would end up with a wearable muslin. The blouse itself goes together quite quickly and I really like that it has an underlap where the buttons are so there is no accidental flashing. I also like that pattern pieces are provided for neckline and armhole binding, or facings as they call them in the pattern.

I forgot to purchase the required buttons for this project on my many trips to the store but I thankfully had this 11mm self covered buttons kit. They are super easy to make, though they get lost on the blouse however due to the busy print. The button loops are also barely visible due to the print.

self-covered buttons

The length is nice but I wish I had taken more notice of the reviews and cut a second yoke to enclose the seams for a nice, neat finish inside. I find the neckline quite low for my liking and need to wear a camisole to feel secure and should have made the blouse a size larger at the bust, perhaps it would be better to do an FBA. I also think I need to do a sway back adjustment, which I never have done before. I also think this blouse may be nicer in a fabric with more drape as the cotton is quite stiff.

Newlook 6107 blouse hanger

   new look 6107 blouse buttons

The blouse looks and sits just as well when tucked in as it does when worn loosely. It only has 6 buttons with the bottom portion below the last button, free to flap open although it doesn’t do so very easily.

I have been able to mark off another two SWAP 15 basics from my list. There are a couple more cut and ready to go. In case you are wondering I’m a living where it is hot all year around so don’t have to think about sewing autumn/fall and winter projects. I’m actually surprised with my progress and ability so far to stay on target. I’m sure by the time I finish though, I will be into another colour palette.

new look 6107 tucked front 2

                            new look 6107 tucked side 2  new look 6107 tucked back

PS I should have ironed my skirt first!