Burda 11/2008 Dress 111 with Modern Metal

I first made this dress here, in a jungle themed fabric. I loved the fit and style of the dress and decided to replicate it however creating a different look. The dress is from the Burda World of Fashion magazine, edition 11/2008. I made dress 111, a fitted sheath dress with a wide jewel neckline and waist seam.

My fabric is a printed cotton sateen #10 in a latice multicolour 127cm wide (97% cotton/3% spandex) and I left the dress unlined. I feel that’s a bit of a sin sometimes but please forgive me, I am currently living in a very hot and humid climate and am all for minimal layers. I figured I can always wear a slip if need be.

front belted                 side belted                   back belted

Construction wise everything went together trouble free as mentioned with the first version but I should have realised that the stretch in the sateen made the fit a little loose in this version. I’ll see how I go but might end up taking in the side seams a smidge. I also removed about 2 inches from the centre upper back as per my usual alteration. This time around though I shortened the bodice by 1 inch and lengthened the skirt by 1 inch.

I wanted to make this dress a little more edgy so sewed on a 70 cm metal zipper from my stash for this version. Not sure how to tackle this I did lots of research on the web and kind of made up my own instructions. I interfaced the dress edge where the zipper was to be inserted, turned the fabric towards the inside and sewed on the zip. I was mostly concerned the zip would be hard and scratchy upon wearing because I didn’t but an inside protective flap but so far it hasn’t been an issue. I also tried to pattern match at the waistline and the back seam as to not disrupt the flow of the lattice pattern, which I am quite happy with.

zip top

 zip bottom

I had white serger thread already in the machine and didn’t bother changing it as you can see. For the hem I serged, turned and handstitched. For the neckline I used the included facing and for the armholes I bound them with bought black binding and topstitched both neckline and arnholes.

facing

My only issue this time around is because the fabric is a little more stiff, the flared, slightly a-line shape is more obvious and I would prefer it straighter so might make that adjustment too. I have taken some “before” and “after” photos below where I’m holding the skirt tighter at the back. What do you think? Also the poofy pleats at the front weren’t as obvious I think again the weight of the fabric made a difference, although the pleats aren’t obvious at all full stop because of the nature of the busy fabric.

                                                                                                                                         pinched skirtfront belted 2

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Burda 11/2008 Dress 111 ……It’s a Jungle Out There

This is the second unintentional jungle themed item for the month of January although I’m posting it in February. I have 2 more cut out but didn’t get them done in time, I’m determined to finish them soon though because I don’t want any UFO’s hanging around.

The dress is from the Burda World of Fashion magazine, edition 11/2008. I made dress 111, a fitted sheath dress with a wide jewel neckline and waist seam.

    magazine photo

I chose this dress as I had made it before with minimal alterations and it was already traced. My fabric is a Safari silky saturn bark in beige colourway (100% polyester) and for the lining I used black bemsilk (100% acetate).

front 3  front  front 1

 The instructions are bearable but don’t include a lining but I added one so it’s a nice clean finish for the dress. I tackled the pleat issues by making the lining the same as the dress fabric and sewed up the lining right to the edges of the armholes and neckline, essentially bagging the dress. It’s hard to see from my fabric the 4 pleats at the neckline and 2 at the waist but it adds a nice detail.

close up

I inserted a black invisible zipper at the back. First I ironed on some fusible interfacing to the back seam and then sewed on the zipper. The fabric is quite thin and I wanted some stability. I didn’t make the belt instructed and figured I would wear a skinny belt I already own although made thread belt loops as my fabric is quite slippery and the belt would not stay in place.back 1

For the hem I turned and topstitched, nothing exciting here to report.

The fit of this dress is good for me as the waist is high compared to other designs and seems to sit more at my natural waist. I did remove about 2 inches from the centre upper back but that was all. I will be making this again some time, stay tuned.

side 1

I think this is more a fabric issue than anything but you can see when I stand completely side on (left photo) the fabric appears to lay flat however when on a slight angle (right photo) the fabric poofs out at the pleats in the skirt. It’s not enough of an issue to bother me but could perhaps be overcome by tacking the pleats down.