New Look 6130 Floral Peplum Top

I am a little slow to jump on the self-made peplum bandwagon although have some RTW, but alas I have made one and have another ready to go. I haven’t sewn up this pattern before but the reviews are all pretty positive. I used New Look 6130 paired here with my recently made New Look 6107 white skirt.

New Look 6130 side                            New Look 6130 frontNew Look 6130 side 2

I did a bit of a mash up of views for the top, using the bodice from view C and the sleeves and peplum from view B. My fabric is printed floral in white cotton sateen (96% cotton/4% spandex). There are so many colours in this top that it should get lots of wear over time. I followed the instructions to the letter and found the finish around the armhole to be neat as it is finished with a facing once the sleeve is attached to enclose all seams. The armhole facings are sewn on top of the neckline facing to keep the neckline facing flat and from flipping out.

New Look bias and facing

I only had a cream 20cm invisible zip in the stash so used that. The zipper pull doesn’t show too much of a difference in colour, besides my hair covers it.

New Look 6130 back

I found the sizing pretty accurate and I like the princess seam bodice as it makes for a close fit. I think next time though I will take out about 1cm from the front neckline as there is some gaping. I also find the upper back a bit loose and will also take out about 2cm from the back centre seam in future. I tend to need to make this alteration quite frequently – not sure what it is called.

The peplum also has a bit of a difference in that it has pleats at the front and back. The seams lined up pretty close here. Both the peplum and sleeve New look 6130 seamshems were finished off with a narrow 5/8″ manual rolled hem.

I was almost defeated by this project however because while trimming my armhole seam allowances I cut a hole in the left upper back. I interfaced the hole from the inside and then hand stitched a pink flower over the hole. The result is far from great but hopefully not visible to the untrained eye. I really should have left it and come back to it the following morning rather than fix it at 11:30pm, experience has taught me lots of mistakes happen when I am tired and late at night, you would think I have learnt my lesson by now.

New Look cut

New Look fixRegardless, I have found in my short sewing career, New Look patterns fit me quite well with minimal changes and I like that they have quite modern silhouettes. I will be on the look out for more at the next sale!

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NapTime T-shirt and Peplum Top from Scraps for the Kids

I mentioned previously how I wanted to avoid adding to my scrap pile after each project so was straight onto using this rayon knit (100% polyester) in a #4 scatter pink colourway, and white ITY knit (95% polyester, 5% spandex) from my Athena Top. I came across a free raglan shirt pattern from Nap-time Creations.sleeve pattern

I wanted a flutter sleeve, something girly. I simply retraced the sleeve pattern, shortened it to a length I felt appropriate and then drew in vertical lines and slashed and spread. My new sleeve pattern piece was born. I found the size to run true in this pattern.

sleeve insertionI serged the armhole/sleeve opening and sewed on the sleeves and then the remaining sleeve opening was folded inwards and top stitched. I didn’t hem the sleeves as the jersey doesn’t fray and I don’t think I would have got a nice finish on the curved hem anyway. I mistakenly however forgot to raise the armscye which would normally be attached to a sleeve but in this case it is probably 2cm too low. I will make this change next time for sure.

sleeve hem turned under

For the neckband, back and sleeves I used the ITY, and cut a band 1.75 inch wide with a length of 41 cm for the neckband.

topstitching

I sewed the entire top together using a straight stitch as the zig zag wasn’t looking too great but I did read recently as long as you stretch the fabric behind and in front of the needle while sewing then the strain on the seam whilst the top is being worn shouldn’t pop any stitches. See how we go after a few wears. I did a 1/2 inch hem in the end and hemmed with a stretch twin needle. This top has quite conveniently matched up with the Schoolday skirts I made recently. Two new outfits in one week 🙂

My second scrap busting project used the remnants, brights printed crepe de chine # 4 in yellow/grey (100% polyester) and poly matt crepe de chine in ivory (100% polyester) from my final version of the Athena top. I wasn’t sure how to use it for kids clothing because the colours are quite dark so thought just a little accent would be enough. I found the peplum top by On the Cutting Floor pattern online and probably should have flat pattern measured but thought the 4 would be good for miss 3 1/2, turns out I as wrong as it fits miss 1 1/2. The top is both too short and tight. I’ll definitely be making changes if I make it again for my oldest one.

front      back

I followed the instructions as written for the most part but ran into trouble with the armholes whereby facing and fabric are to both be turned into each other 1/4 inch and then top stitched. This is extremely fiddly on such a small scale so next time I will be bias binding the armholes.

I do like how a facing is included in this pattern but unfortunately due to fabric choice it does show through, I just ensured I finished everything off nicely. I probable should have done french seams because of the light coloured fabric but there aren’t too visible from the outside. I used some stash navy bias binding for contrast on the bottom of the peplum.

I deviated from the pattern in terms of button closure. I sewed the long rectangles along the back closure as described but then sewed the opening together about 11cm down from the neckline to where the peplum seam starts with the peplum section left open (if that makes sense). There were a number of reasons for this. Firstly I only had 2 of these cute 15mm flower buttons in my stash, secondly it fits over her head comfortably with this size of opening, and lastly, trying to get a 1 1/2 year old to sit still so I can do up 4 buttons is asking for trouble. So now I need to sew up some bottoms to match this peplum top.

So many goals and not enough time. Along with stash and scrap busting I’m aiming to work through my pinterest kids clothes inspiration board so sorry if kids things don’t interest you there probably will be a few kids clothes posts in the future.