I’ve been meaning to post this for a while but kept getting distracted. I decided to pattern test* the Wonderland skirt from Lily Sage & Co because I think it’s a pretty cool silhouette but probably was more curious as the whether the style would suit me because I am a typical pear shape. I decided to make my tester version up in Luna printed cotton sateen 6 in green (96% cotton/4% spandex) for the yoke (due to the stretch nature giving me some wiggle room for my body shape) and for the skirt portion I used some black stretch drill (97% cotton, 3% spandex) as I thought it would gather nicely and drape well.
The PDF went together flawlessly and everything lined up perfectly. I cut my corresponding size for waist and hip measurements but could have easily gone down a size probably because of my fabric choice and the stretch component. Given this was a test garment I made it up exactly as instructed and without any pattern changes. I did however end up taking 1cm in from each side seam at the end of construction because it got lose after some wearing time, I’d say mostly due to fabric choice.
The way Debbie describes construction and the addition of little tips makes for a clean finish and inside and out. The instructions have you make a longer waistband on one side for a hook and bar attachment and an invisible zip (I am pretty impressed with my insertion, pretty invisible!!) for the closure.
Due to my own doing, the black drill is a magnet to fluff/dust and is a bit tedious to keep clean. I don’t think I have any of this fabric left now as I had used it for my Built by Wendy Pants that have become a workhorse.
Other than the fit, I also turned up the hem more than specified on the pattern, 2 inches in total as opposed to the instructed 1/2 inch.
You can see how big the gathered skirt it on this pattern.
I personally like to make another version of the completed pattern before writing my thoughts to take into account any pattern or instruction changes. This second version is the final pattern version and I decided to make up view B this time. I used premium cotton sateen (96%cotton/4% spandex) in royal blue. I didn’t want to add a contrast colour to highlight the pockets and yoke details because that would then limit the wearability of this skirt and at the planning stage decided to make thin piping with self fabric at the seams for interest. However after cutting out the skirt I only literally had scraps of fabric left, definitely not enough for my piping idea.
I chose this fabric as it is one I purchased for my SWAP 2015 to make a circle skirt but didn’t have enough to make the skirt length I wanted so decided to use it instead for this pattern and substitute it in place of my planned skirt. Sewing second time around was much quicker. I cut a size smaller than my original tester version and am happy with the fit and didn’t make any fit alterations. I did however change the width of the back skirt piece to be the same width as the front because I ran out of fabric, which was not enough of a difference to make a real significant change to the design. The pockets are really functional, big enough for a phone or keys, and don’t add any additional bulk to the skirt and don’t make it any more complicated to sew up. I slip stitched the waistband in place because stitching in the ditch always turns out messy for me.
I hemmed the skirt 4 inches this time around as I wanted it at a length that would allow me to wear flat shoes. I turned up 2 inches initially, and then another 2 inches and hand stitched the hem to allow me to unpick and let it down in future if I want a change. This skirt has transitioned well into my daily wardrobe and it is getting lots of wear as is visible by the crease lines in the photos.
Debbie has written more in depth instructions for the final pattern in relation the zip insertion and sewing on the waistband which are really comprehensive with great illustrations to match. The pattern is well drafted for both views and surprisingly quick to sew up. I really like how the patterns from Lily Sage & Co include multiple views, you definitely get you money’s worth, check out some other tester versions on her blog.
I was surprised how much I really liked this pattern and the finished skirts. I think two is enough for me for now of this particular style but I think changing up the fabric and skirt portion can make this a really versatile pattern. Recently Debbie changed up her Wonderland skirt to a flounce instead, pushing forward some future projects, such as this one, whereby the yoke is made from lace fabric. I was thinking of using this silhouette/idea in place of my black lace pencil skirt in the SWAP.
Debbie is definitely on trend with this pattern as Toni Maticevski‘s collection had some similar silhouettes recently, so you could really make your own “designer” skirt for a fraction of the price. She is doing a great job of creating unique and wearable fashion and I’m amazed at the speed and quality in which she is getting these patterns out.
*The pattern was provided to me free of charge for testing but all opinions expressed are my own and I received a copy of the finalised pattern for taking part.